Situated on a mountain plateau beside a lake ornamented by a Monet-style bridge is L’Étang du Camp, a once-neglected municipal site, which, in 2006, was lucky enough to be rescued.The views are serene, but there are a couple of quirks you might want to prepare yourself for – you’ll be shaking your head to be sure you’ve not been teleported to the equator. Imagine camping by a reed-fringed lakeside, honeyed African light dappling the canvas of your safari tent. Sneak a look outside for lions and, in the elephant grass, spy the hulking form of water buffaloes. Check your GPS and you’re actually in Aveyron, home to ten of France’s plus beaux villages (most beautiful villages). As to the buffaloes, they belong to a neighbour. But the lake and the safari tents, they’re all real and very alluring.There’s a fleet of mountain bikes you can freewheel to the valley floor on and there are evenings dedicated to story- telling around the fire, enjoyed with a glass of vino and aligot-saucisse (local-style sausage and mash).
Stuart and Christine are great hosts and an excellent source of knowledge on how to make the best of the area. Medieval Conques looks as if it’s stepped straight from In the Name of the Rose; the cliff-huddling town is unforgettable. Sit in the peaceful Abbaye de Ste-Foy (best visited in early evening as the light is fading) and listen to choral music before walking the labyrinthine streets. You’ll be following in the footsteps of thousands of Santiago de Compostela pilgrims, who’ve been coming through here since the 11th century.
