Les Grèbes du Lac de Marcenay

Marcenay, in the Châtillonnais area of Burgundy, is one of 23 villages famed for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. At one time the lake here was used by local monks as their source of piscatorial sustenance: however today it attracts a somewhat more diverse collection of people, who come to sunbathe on its sandy banks, row, or paddle across the large expanse of water, or watch the wildlife. And, fortunately, there’s also a lovely campsite nestled right next to it.
 
Les Grèbes du Lac de Marcenay is everything that a campsite should and could be. It’s got all the ingredients for an old-school camping experience: a remote location far away from any road noise, a substantial lake, an incredibly friendly and helpful welcome in the guise of Dirk Jansen, the owner, and a laissez-faire attitude to where you pitch your home for the duration of your stay. That it’s off the beaten track won’t appeal to people who like to be within walking distance of a choice of bars and restaurants, but we kind of feel that this isolation is all part of its appeal.
 
When Dirk took on the site it was a tired municipal affair in desperate need of someone who could let its natural character shine through. He says that one of the first things he did was remove the barrier at the entrance and throw away the rules and regulations telling campers what they could and couldn’t do.‘People don’t want to see that when they are on holiday’, he explains in his dulcet Dutch tones. Since then, he’s been quietly turning it into a relaxed lakeside idyll. And after all the years that he’s worked running and owning campsites, you can tell that he still has a passion for it and has a hundred and one plans for things he wants to develop – when time and funds allow.
 
The site itself seems to attract a mixture of people; young couples touring around France who just want to stay for a few days, and older couples who come back year after year and stay for weeks at a time. It also seems to attract cyclists, who use it as a base to explore the area. Being away from any traffic, the site feels like a safe place for kids to run around and have fun without causing undue parental anxiety.
 
It’s a lush, green, wooded plot with reasonably spacious pitches (or, at least, spacious by French standards). Each one is set in a clearing that is partially surrounded by shrubs or trees, so there is a real sense of privacy. On one side are open fields and vineyards and on the other is the lake, which is about 3 miles (5 km) all the way round and on the edge of a forest. And despite Dirk’s various plans, the site’s greatest asset will always be the ancient natural feature that gives it its name. There is something very special about living near the water and the tall trees that line its banks. Unfortunately you can’t actually camp on the lakeside itself, but you are literally a hop, skip, and a jump away across one of a couple of footbridges that links you to the water’s edge. So you could very easily take a bottle of wine and a blanket and sit on the sand, watching the sun set, and not have to worry about getting lost as you scuttle back to your bed. 
 
Although individual campfires aren’t allowed next to the pitches, there is a communal area just outside the main site overlooking the lake, where Dirk regularly sets up a fire and BBQ for everyone to enjoy. He also plans to have a small outside bar, so campers can enjoy une bière and some saucisson and tell stories around the campfire, too. All in all, Les Grèbes du Lac Marcenay is a very special campsite. Its relaxed, welcoming atmosphere and beautiful setting somehow capture the true spirit of camping in France and make the experience of staying here a real joy.