Camping La Pointe

La Pointe lies just outside the picturesque town of Châteaulin, close by a tree-lined bend of the canalised River Aulne. The site is British-owned – Marcus and Julie took over from another English couple in 2008 – but it attracts a loyal following of French campeurs, along with British and Dutch regulars, who appreciate the warm, considerate welcome. The site sits in a conifer-lined valley at the foot of a deciduous forest, which was recently incorporated within the borders of the Parc Naturel Régional d’Armorique, with a tinkling stream running down one side.
 
The pitches are huge, separated by hedges and flowers, with terraces rising up the wooded hillside if you seek more shade and privacy – 300 trees were cleared in 2010 to ensure that the site wasn’t too shady. Experienced campers themselves, the owners know what their customers want – there’s a spacious play area for the kids and a chill-out room; outdoor furniture for lounging and a handy fridge-freezer. If you fancy having a BBQ, you’ll find them for hire here, and there’s a daily boulangerie delivery as well as fresh eggs and vegetables from the kitchen garden. Along with the woodland, the canal path is ideal for a walking, running, cycling, or fishing (the canal is a grade- two salmon stream), but adventure-sports junkies won’t need to travel far either.
 
To get a bird’s eye view of the Breton countryside, take a trip 5 miles (8 km) to the summit of Ménez-Hom, the highest peak in the Black Mountains. At just over 1,000 feet (330 metres) it’s no Everest, and you can actually drive almost to the top, but it offers a panorama of Western Brittany and the Crozon Peninsula. The paragliders who use the peak get an even loftier view looking north towards Brest, south to Quimper, and west, where the coastline curves around the sweep of the Baie de Douarnenez and on to the stunning views of cliffs at Pointe du Raz.
 
There are more thrills on the extravagantly long, level stretches of sand near Douarnenez. The char à voile (sand-yachting) world championships were held at Pentrez beach and there are plenty of them lined up for hire if you fancy eye-watering, seat-of-the-pants speed. There are smaller coves beyond, such as Trez Bellec, where you won’t be sandblasted by sea breezes. Perhaps this explains why the French don’t bother with wind-breaks, those small fortresses of stripey canvas that British beach-lovers love, but sit stoically in the face of buffeting blasts. Surfers who want to catch the Atlantic swell can head for Pen Hir Point, but slower-motion adrenaline junkies will find pleasure here, too – Marcus and Julie are keen bird-watchers, who recommend the rugged cliffs around Pointe du Raz, and local marshland sites near La Feu, to fellow twitchers.
 
Another essential excursion is to the remarkable medieval town of Locronan, a perfectly preserved, cobbled, car-free haven (park just outside). It became famous in the 14th century for making sailcloth, although there are Celtic and early Christian traditions here, too, as it dates back 2,500 years. The sand-coloured granite houses and 15th-century church have made it a favourite location for film-makers, and it’s so reminiscent of Hardy’s Wessex that Roman Polanski’s version of Tess of the d’Urbervilles was even filmed there. The town feels quite touristy in the afternoon, so it’s probably best to go on a Wednesday evening, when there’s an atmospheric ‘starlit’ market. In short, there’s plenty to do around La Pointe. The visitors’ book is full of comments like ‘I only meant to stay one night and I’m still here a week later’. Which says it all, really.