Mille Étoiles

Pushing his heavily pregnant partner 1,000 feet (300 m) up a steep valley-side track from the Ardèche River bank can’t have been an easy feat, but you get the feeling that Luds van den Belt and Ruth Lawson probably used the opportunity to hatch their next plan. Since meeting in London and roaming Europe in a campervan, their second summer spent running and living in a shack bar by the river’s edge was drawing to an end. Their customers had been children seeking sugar rushes to speed their ascent back to camp and the occasional surprised canoeist passing downstream. Now it was home time.
 
Used to the Massif Central’s Mediterranean climes, the prospect of a British winter wasn’t appealing. When land on this nature reserve came up for sale, the couple pounced. Fast-forward the best part of a decade and with two daughters now at school, their beautiful campsite Mille Étoiles, overlooking the Ardèche River, is easily one of France’s loveliest.
 
The forested land, sitting high above a canyon of sparkling, turquoise waters, is so fairy-tale-perfect, in fact, that weddings aplenty have taken place here. Stylish touches, creative design, all those little comforts catered for – lanterns at night, posh toiletries in the wash-rooms – and, of course, the close proximity to the gorge means you could book in for a fortnight and still not be ready to go home at the end. Experienced campers who celebrate the great outdoors, who like being active, and who can always opt for a little luxury (a proper bed to sleep on) get the most out of a stay here. Mille Étoiles test-drove a few yurts in 2003, with no electricity or water, way before the glamping boom, and cite nature as their star attraction. Although one look at these nomadic Mongolian yurts and fancy family bathrooms suggests that there’s a lot more to the campsite than the enchanting surroundings.
 
Coming in from Barjac, the village is signposted. Head down a country track shadowed by ancient oaks and olive trees and park on the gravel drive. Introductions are made in the couple’s handcrafted camp café – a fantastic oak-framed tunnel tent with a cream canvas over chaises longues, a fashionable terrace, patio tables, and chairs. Outside, the stillness of the Ardéchois woodland is calling the world to run feral and free.
 
Five natural canvas forest yurts on pine platforms are scattered decent distances apart. Sumptuous double beds with thick duvets are draped with mosquito nets. Each one is themed (for example boudoir, Edwardian safari, Indian, Thai) and furnished with chunky wooden chests or canvas wardrobes, ethnic pictures, and recycled bedside tables. Starched, comfortable hammocks swing outside and self-catering yurts with cooking facilities are shared among the guests.
 
The Village, a tent-only camping field, is a recent development to encourage more campers. Situated on the other side of the café, the field is near a facilities block and all guests share the kids’ playground, camp café, and paddling pool. If wildlife is the luxury you need, bag one of the 20 pitches there or in the woods.
 
Mille Étoiles is a 20-minute scramble down a steep decline to the water and, once on the river bed, walkers can follow the river the length of the gorge. With no electricity on site, the stars shine brightly after dark. If all the splashing about on the river hasn’t worn you out then counting those Mille Étoiles will get you well on your way to a good night’s sleep. 1, 2, 3… [Since we visited Mille Étoiles, the site had been sold, but we trust the new owners maintain the standards set by the last ones.]