The Limousin countryside rolls with wave upon wave of buttery hills, peppered with distinctive honey-hued cattle and pointy-hat chateaux. Chez Rambaud is truly out in the sticks, about a mile from sleepy Les Salles-Lavauguyon on the Richard Coeur de Lion route. It’s so well hidden it might take a few goes to find it, but its vantage point on a gentle hill is the perfect place to pitch up. The site is small yet wide-horizoned. It’s also immaculately clean, but not to the point where you’ll feel bad if you drop a few baguette crumbs. Owners Nicky and Neil welcome you in their flower-filled garden, after which they leave you to your own devices. Since the site is bijou there are no painful odysseys to get to the sparkling toilet and wash-block.
The site is still in its nascency, so there’s not a great deal for kids. For the adults this isn’t a problem as there’s a great library packed with thrillers. But fortunately for les enfants, a few miles away beautiful Lac de Lavaud has a sandy beach and swimming area – even if the water is a bit creepy. There are bags of local things to do, too, from wine-tasting, rambling, and cycling to exploring markets and summer festivals. If you fish you’re in luck, for the Charente and Vienne rivers are nearby and the site owners can help you acquire a permit. There’s plenty of farmhouse produce for sale. Nicky has taught herself animal husbandry and also grows lettuces, potatoes, tomatoes, and courgettes; coolher home-made sausages can be bought for monumental fry-ups.
Camping Chez Rambaud
We say
Electricity points at every pitch, of which there are 6. The wash-block is spotless and the showers warm and powerful enough to wake you from your slumber. Laundry facilities and special access for those with reduced mobility. Petting farm. Campfires not permitted, BBQs off ground okay.
Tents, campervans, and dogs (on leads) – yes.
The historic cities of Angoulême and Limoges are both within range. So, too, is the eerily preserved site of Oradour-sur-Glane, its peace belying a macabre day in 1942 on which 642 people were killed by the Waffen SS. The village was looted and set on fire and it has been kept in exactly the state it was left, with burnt-out cars and derelict buildings. On a lighter note golf, bird-watching, kayaking, and horse-riding can all be organised. If you have time, hop on the Velo Rail in nearby Confolens and pedal for miles on a disused railway line. Ask Nicky for information about local markets. For antique buffs there are plenty of vide greniers (car boots), where you might happen upon a real gem.
You’re in gastro country; the area is renowned for its chocolate, walnuts, and artisan food. For lunch or dinner try Hôtel de France, Rochechouart
(00 33 5 55 03 03 87), more French than Gainsbourg and much prettier, with wonderful views and a rustic seasonal menu. The steak haché (€12) is delicious.
Pitch plus 2 adults and car €14.50 per night. Child (up to 10 years) €2 per night; dog €1.50. Hook-up €4.
All year.
You say
Photos
Getting there
From Angoulême follow D12 and N141 to La Rochefoucauld, then hop on to D13, following the sign for Sauvagnac. Les Salles-Lavauguyon is the next village.
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