Ahhh, the Yorkshire Dales – “God’s Own Country”,as any stout-headed, dyed in the wool Yorkshireman will tell you. For those of us not privileged enough to have visited this fabled corner of the country, such ardent civic pride can seem a little hifalutin. That is until you’ve laid eyes upon the undulating fields, stitched by miles of drystone walls and gently flowing brooks that make up the Swaledale Valley. Then you’ll see they really do have a point.
The Metcalfe family have been farming these lands for centuries. Usha Gap Farm was acquired by present owner Philip’s father in the 1930s. Almost a century later, the 640 acres now host a prize herd of Swaledale sheep, Limousin cattle, and some of the UK’s luckiest campers.
For those seeking a traditional Dales camping experience, Usha Gap is pitch-up perfection. Philip, along with wife Louise and their two sons, are hospitality personified. Facilities are basic, but then you haven’t come here for an ayvuredic therapy tent and wood-fired saunas. In fact, you won’t even get mobile signal. But who needs the fripperies of smart phones when you’ve got the tranquil River Swale flowing gently beside your tent?
For sustenance, there’s a pub in Murker Village and the Tan Hall Inn – Britain’s highest inn at 1,732ft above sea level – is a 15-minute drive; worth it for the photo oppotunity alone. Overall, though, you don’t need to go far to make the most of Usha Gap. With vistas over hay meadows, 18th-century barns, and animals grazing lazily in the pastures below, it really is one of the most picturesque campsites in the country.
In case you haven't guessed from all the sheep, the region is renowned for it's wool prooduction. Swaledale Woolens (01748 886 251) in Muker is your one-stop-shop for fleeces and sweaters. Over the hill in Hawes, the Wensleydale Creamery (01969 667 664) has a visitors centre and restaurant for all you cheese connoisseurs. For the litt'luns, The Forbidden Corner (01969 640 638) in Middleham is an eccentric labyrinth of tunnels, follies, sculptures and secret gardens. Further afield near Leyburn, Bolton Castle (01969 623 981) is one of England's best preserved fortresses, with regular entertainment and re-enactment battles hosted. North Yorks biggest town, Richmond, also boasts it's own magnificent medieval ruin (01748 822 493). In a region with no shortage of natural wonders, Aysgarth Falls and White Scar Caves take some beating.
The Farmers Arms (01748 886297) in Muker is a traditional Dales pub, complete with stone-flagged floor and roaring fireplace. With a selection of cask ales and mammoth, filled Yorkshire puddings, it’s perfect for drying out after a rainy day’s rambling. The Muker Village Teashop and Stores (01748 886409) is the spot to go for afternoon tea. On Fridays, Ramsey’s Mobile Fish and Chip Van passes through Muker just after 7.30pm. Be prompt to beat the queues.