Back then it was known as dropping out. In the 1940s it was a slow boat to Tangiers. In the Sixties it was the hippie trail to Kathmandu in a clapped-out combi van. Nowadays it’s called going off grid and you can do it pretty much anywhere. Just shed the trappings of modern life and live as simply as possible. Some people even manage to do without money altogether, foraging for berries, trapping the odd rabbit and sleeping wherever they lay the worn-out hat they can’t afford to repair or replace.
Now that may be going a bit far when all you want is a weekend away but Carnebo Barn, in rolling fields just north of Falmouth, gives you a taster of the off-grid life because it’s got no electricity.
The place is owned and run by Rufus, a carpenter, and his partner Rebecca, a jazz cellist, and has only recently opened as an official campsite, though friends and family have been enjoying the place for years. The five acre smallholding up a very rough and ready track has a spacious, though slightly sloping, camping field in front of the barn, compost loos and solar showers and a communal fire pit with wooden seating with some awning to hide from the rain. What power there is comes from a small wind turbine whirring above a gorse bush (OK there’s a diesel generator as well for calm days but why spoil a good story?). A short walk down the hill from the site through thigh-high bracken you’ll find a glorious little swimming hole in a tiny quarry. Cold, deep and very discrete it’s the perfect place for a wake-me-up plunge in the morning or for cooling off after a long hot day of Cornwalling.
The idea is to attract walkers and cyclists and anyone else with the ingenuity to arrive without the aid of an internal combustion engine (although a pre arranged luggage pick up is offered) and it’s the perfect place to give it a go as there are public footpaths crisscrossing the countryside here so it is possible to get around just as well on Shanks’s pony. Penryn is just a couple of miles away and Falmouth a bit more of a six-mile hike, though there are plenty of local bus services as well.
It’s worth the trip down to Falmouth as it’s really quite a funky little town with a mix of surfers, students, posh yachters and tourists and an agreeably run-down feel. It’s a great base for sea-borne activities and there are some cracking beaches nearby if you prefer salt water to fresh. Elsewhere are all the coastal walks and glorious gardens for which Cornwall is famous.
But it’s the site itself that’s the main attraction. Rufus and Rebecca are charming and interesting hosts, eager to share stories round the fire of an evening, maybe break out into an improv music session and there are even plans to erect a screen in the field and have film evenings of French New Wave classics and the like. It’s all very cool and just sufficiently on-grid not to be too scary to soft city dwellers. After all you can still get Radio 4 on your wind-up radio and that’s always a sign of civilisation.
Carnebo Barn
We say
Tents, walkers and cyclists – Yes. Well behaved dogs are fine (there are chickens around). Caravans, campervans, motorbikes, any thing with an internal combustion engine – No.
Tucked away in the bushes in what looks like a small Methodist chapel are the compost loos and there are solar showers in a corner of the field. There’s a cold water tap and some rudimentary tin tubs for doing a bit of washing up. There’s also a communal fire pit with wooden seating and a small canopied area just in case it rains.
You can start with the swimming hole a short walk from the campsite or try the nearby sea and boat trips from Falmouth. There are gardens galore, the nearest of which are Glendurgan (National Trust) and Trebah. Down by the wharf in Falmouth there’s the National Maritime Museum (01326 313388) with lots of salty goings-on.
There are a few basic commodities for sale in the barn – eggs, milk and bread – otherwise it’s bring your own (there’s a large ASDA a couple of miles back down the road) or go to the Argal Farm shop (one and a half miles away). For a treat head into Falmouth for award winning burgers at 5 Degrees West (01326 311288) or try Miss Peapods Kitchen Café (01326 374424). In Penryn there’s the charming Little Yellow House (01326 377622). Accessible by public footpath in Constantine is the glasshouse café of Potager (01326 341258) though it’s only open on Saturdays and Sundays in the summer. Otherwise there are plenty of pubs and restaurants along the Flamouth wharfs, including a Latin place called Aquaviva (01326 377943).
There’s a simple tariff of £7 per adult per night. Under 5s free and kids up to age 16 are £5. A pre-erected bell tent is available for £50 per night and sleeps four.
All year.
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You say
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BeccyReilly08/115tent pitch11/08/11
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myrtleco08/11506/08/11
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rogermid06/115tent pitch20/07/11
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mriainpaterson08/105tent pitch17/09/10
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hampei08/105tent pitch07/09/10
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libbyfizzy07/104tent pitch04/08/10
Getting there
Pen and paper at the ready. From the A30 take the Truro exit. From Truro follow signs for Falmouth and at the Kernick roundabout (opposite the ASDA and B&Q superstores) take the Mabe Burnthouse exit. Go up the hill to what’s known locally as the ‘funny junction’ with red markings in the road. Turn left past the New Inn and follow the road through the village. At the end of the village (by Harmony Cottage on the left) the road turns sharp left. Almost hidden on the right is the entrance to a small lane. Take this lane until you reach some houses and the road veers to the right. There’s a small post box just on the left. Take the road that leads straight on and follow it until it becomes a track. Follow it all the way past some houses and over the brow of the hill. There are telegraph poles on the left and just where the phone line crosses over the road to the last pole on your right is the entrance to the campsite. Phew.
By train: Take the Falmouth branch line to Penryn Station from Truro (half hourly service). Opposite the station take the no 68 bus to Mabe and follow directions as below.
By bus: From London - National Express offer a daily service (number 504) from Victoria Bus Station departing at 11am and arriving in Falmouth at 18.55
From Falmouth - From Falmouth Moor there are two services to Mabe, the no.68 and no.2
From Penryn - Take the no 68 from Penryn station.
On Foot: From Mabe Bus stop walk into village towards the New Inn Pub. Keep the New Inn Pub on your left and follow the road through the village. At the end of the village (by Harmony Cottage on the left) the road turns sharp left. Almost hidden on the right is the entrance to a small lane. Take this lane until you reach some houses and the road veers to the right. There’s a small post box just on the left. Take the road that leads straight on and follow it until it becomes a track. Follow it all the way past some houses and over the brow of the hill. There are telegraph poles on the left and just where the phone line crosses over the road to the last pole on your right is the entrance to the campsite.
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