Secret Garden

Bosavern House, St Just, Penzance, Cornwall TR19 7RD, UK
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Teaser text: 

Be sure to keep quiet about this secret little Eden. Stunning in a variety of ways, you'll be lost for words (and that's a good thing!)

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Cool Camping campsite review: 

The greatest difficulty this small campsite could ever encounter is living up to its name. After all, those two simple words, ‘secret’ and ‘garden’, when put together promise so much: your very own slice of Eden-like paradise full of natural sensual pleasure.

This promise of your own private Eden is aided by the fact that this tiny campsite is situated on the mystical far-western edge of Cornwall, where travellers only find what they earnestly seek, and don’t just drop upon by mere happenstance. And the way to the Secret Garden is indeed enchanting, along the rugged coast westwards, fleeing the crowds of St Ives, or across the empty granite-strewn hills, escaping the Pirates of Penzance.

The sign outside Bosavern House – where Secret Garden hides – stating there are cream teas available, is yet another promising prospect for keen gastro-campers. But this doesn’t look like a place where there is, or can be, a campsite – it’s a rather grand-looking old granite mansion. ‘Where’s the campsite?’ you ask the distinguished-looking chap who comes to the door. ‘It’s in the garden round the back’, says he, and your little heart dares to wonder if all those wild imaginings of a secret garden can be true.

Then, when reality sets in as you push past the hens, brush off the embrace of the palm trees and other exotic plants, there it is – the Secret Garden. But what’s this – other campers in the form of two tents and two campervans? So you aren’t the first campers to make it here after all. Drat. In fact, there are 12 pitches within this lovely little oasis of vegetational tranquillity, and quite often in high season they are all occupied. But even though it isn’t solely yours, after a day or three has passed and the outside world is just a distant memory, the realisation gradually dawns that this garden campsite in all its hidden-away, intimate glory, is indeed a secret.

And that secretive feel continues outside too, with little-trod footpaths leading off towards the coast. One such magical trail leads to Porth Nanven, through a mile of scenery you never want to end, and this is yet another seemingly undisclosed place just a few miles from the throng at Land’s End. Another footpath strikes out across farmland, then burrows its way through dark, damp overgrown tree-tunnels to the cliffs, and to Cape Cornwall: yet another well-kept secret.

It’s fortunate that Cape Cornwall doesn’t poke out into Atlantic just a little further, for then it would have been Land’s End, and this beautiful empty place might have ended up being smothered by tourists. As it is you can stroll down to Cape Cornwall from your Secret Garden, enjoy a swim in the cove or tidal pool; then wander back to the campsite for a cream tea in the garden…And all without seeing more than a handful of other retiring and secretive folk. Does the Secret Garden live up to its name? As Churchill (the dog that is) would say, ‘Oh Yes!’.

Cool factor: 
A secret campsite, in secret Cornwall.
Who's in?: 

Tents, campervans, caravans – yes. Dogs, groups – no.

Onsite fun: 

There is a total of 12 spacious marked pitches laid out around the hedges and edges of Secret Garden, all of which have hook-ups – and this place is genuinely the garden of Bosavern House. As is to be expected the ablutions block is small and provides toilets, free showers (1W, 1M), laundry, and a washing-up sink. The facilities are colourful, spotlessly maintained, and there are pleasing little touches to provide a homely feel. The lounge in the main house is available for campers’ use, as is the library and bar. The proprietors will even cook your breakfast for you if you possess the personal organisational skills to have ordered it the night before. No campfires.

Offsite fun: 

There are many remnants of Cornwall’s mining heritage scattered about on both the moors and cliffs hereabouts. The Levant Engine House (01736 786156) – a very beautiful 4-mile walk along the coast path from the Secret Garden – contains a functioning Cornish Beam engine, which is in steam several times a week in summer. About 4 miles in the opposite direction is Sennen Cove, with its stunning beach and serious surf action, while a bit closer to the site (a mile away) is Porth Nanven, where a bracing dip awaits the adventurous. Just beyond Sennen Cove lies Land’s End, with its dramatic cliffs, breathtaking views, and collection of attractions. Less than a mile from the Secret Garden is Land’s End Airport, where there are pleasure flights and regular flights to the Scilly Isles. The Scillonian is operated by the same company as the flights, and sails to the Scilly Isles from Penzance. Between St Just and Penzance are the exotic (and slightly secretive) gardens at Trengwainton (01736 363148), where plants that grow nowhere else in Britain thrive in the walled garden.

Food & drink: 

For gargantuan classic Cornish cream teas look no further than the front garden where, from 2:30 until 6pm, the fat factor is put aside. The Cornish Hevva cake, with clotted cream and strawberries, is sublime. Local pubs in St Just (½ mile distant) include the Commercial Hotel (01736 788455) where the food is unquestionably good; the Star (01736 788767) – an ancient, atmospheric inn with no food; and the Wellington Hotel (01736 787319), which might be described as decently predictable. The Queens Arms (01736 788318) at Botallack, another mile down the road, is also fairly ordinary in the food department, but has a good selection of local ales and hosts a Beer Festival every September.
For that extra-special treat, the Victoria Inn (01736 710309) at Perranuthnoe is a bit further away, but the contemporary food is as remarkable as the ancient surroundings.

The damage: 

Tent plus 2 people £15 per night; additional persons (over 2 years) £3.20; hook-up £4.20.

Open: 

Mar-Oct

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Getting there

Follow the A30 towards Land’s End, and turn right on to the B3306 after passing Crows An Wra. Bosavern House, and its Secret Garden, is on the right after 2 miles.

Public transport: 

The summer-only Coast Bus (no. 300, operated by First from 30 Apr–2 Oct) can be boarded at Penzance (where there’s a train station) and passes the site. It’s also useful to reach walking expeditions on the coast path.

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Contact

Phone: 
01736 788301
Address: 
Bosavern House, St Just, Penzance, Cornwall TR19 7RD, UK

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