The sleepy, seaside settlement of Hinderwell on the North Yorkshire coast, is a real village of old. Children stroll to the public tennis courts, a local notice board advertises church groups or community gatherings and two excellent pubs compete for your custom along the high street. There’s a local butcher, a chippie and a village hall that hosts kids’ parties and other local events, plus of course, the staple of any village that’s truly worth a visit… a good campsite.
Hinderwell’s campsite relects the traditional, olde-world charm of the village itself, focusing on simple pleasures and with a peaceful, timeless atmosphere. The village, meanwhile, plods along at an equally relaxed and homely pace – a welcoming environment for any visitor. Its name comes from the 5th century tale of St Hilda, who touched the ground and produced a spring that still flows from Hilda’s Well today. The name of the campsite, you quickly realise, is equally as literal.
Silence is golden and this is very much the mantra at Serenity – catering for a more relaxed and calmer crowd than the usual seaside campers. Peace and quiet reign. There is the odd exception to the rule; the working smallholding next door supplies the sound of the odd tractor or cockerel crow but it only adds to the real-world charisma of the place, which is otherwise blessed with snooze-in-the-sun tranquility for most of the time.
The site itself has space for 40 tents and 19 caravans. Glampers, meanwhile, can choose from two cool Lotus Belle tents, a new, boutique shepherd’s hut or the private ‘Potting Shed’, a large wooden cabin sleeping two with a private garden and uninterrupted sunset views. Warm, modern facilities feature alongside eco-friendly products, potted plants and a steady supply of fresh eggs from wandering hens. While a seat next to the pretty wildlife pond is perfect for whiling away the hours feeding the ducks and ducklings who visit every summer.
A number of the best local walks start directly from the campsite and it’s less than a mile to the sands of Runswick Bay. A particular highlight is heading out to the cliffs on the coastal footpath to Whitby – a wind-blown eight-mile route with stunning views. It’s a mile north along the Cleveland Way to picturesque Staithes, too, home to a thriving artistic community with several galleries and craft shops. The village boasts seafaring myth, triumph, tragedy and even its own dialect – which is celebrated at the annual Staithes Arts and Heritage festival in September and all year round at the quirky Captain Cook and Staithes Heritage Museum. It’s also the most unbeatable spot for enjoying seafood with the obligatory harbour view – try the Cod & Lobster pub, with benches outside.